4520 Board intro - Revision history

LIMS at 22:21, 28 December 2007

2007-12-28T22:21:58Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 17:21, 28 December 2007
Line 46:		Line 46:
	<b>Using solderless breadboard with the 4520 board</b>		<b>Using solderless breadboard with the 4520 board</b>

	Shove it in there. Hard. See photo below.		Shove it in there. Hard. The 36 pins from the 4520 board contact 36 five-point rows of the breadboard. See photo below. You can get it back out again if you need to, but it's not easy

	You can run wires from the +5 and ground connections on 4520 board to the red and blue rails on the ~~solderles~~ breadboard.		You can run wires from the +5 and ground connections on 4520 board to the red and blue rails on the solderless breadboard.

			<b>Note</b> - two errors to avoid -- if you plug the 36 pins into a red or blue rail, they'll all be shorted to each other -- and remember that >1/4 of the breadboard is now dedicated to the PIC. Don't put a chip across the gutter there.

	[[Image:4520-solderlessbb.jpg]]		[[Image:4520-solderlessbb.jpg]]

LIMS at 01:49, 27 December 2007

2007-12-27T01:49:38Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 20:49, 26 December 2007
Line 48:		Line 48:
	Shove it in there. Hard. See photo below.		Shove it in there. Hard. See photo below.

	You can run wires from the +5 and ground connections on 4520 board to the red and blue rails on the solderles breadboard.		You can run wires from the +5 and ground connections on 4520 board to the red and blue rails on the solderles breadboard.

	[[Image:4520-solderlessbb.jpg]]		[[Image:4520-solderlessbb.jpg]]

LIMS at 01:49, 27 December 2007

2007-12-27T01:49:20Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 20:49, 26 December 2007
Line 9:		Line 9:
	<b>Circuit diagram of the 4520 prototyping board</b>		<b>Circuit diagram of the 4520 prototyping board</b>

	The circuitry on the board includes an optional voltage regulator, a reset button, a programming port, and power indicator light.		The circuitry on the board includes an optional voltage regulator, a reset button, a programming port, and power indicator light. And the PIC microcontroller of course.

	Also built in are the current limiting resistors for up to 32 LEDs, and places to put LED indicators on as many of those lines as you wish. These are intended to be used as diagnostics. The current limiting resistors are compactly packaged in a 9-pin SIP, containing 8 resistors and a common ("bussed") pin, which we ground.		Also built in are the current limiting resistors for up to 32 LEDs, and places to put LED indicators on as many of those lines as you wish. These are intended to be used as diagnostics. The current limiting resistors are compactly packaged in a 9-pin SIP, containing 8 resistors and a common ("bussed") pin, which we ground.
Line 37:		Line 37:
	, also showing the prototyping area.		, also showing the prototyping area.

	The board is intended to be cut in half, providing one part for insertion into a solderless breadboard, and another ~~half~~ for more reliable solderboard construction		The board is intended to be cut in half, providing one part for insertion into a solderless breadboard, and another part for more reliable solderboard construction.

	The next step better ~~still~~ is to to make a printed circuit board with your circuit on it as well as the PIC. If starting with the protoboard's layout is useful to you, you can find it here:		The next step better yet is to to make a printed circuit board with your circuit on it as well as the PIC. If starting with the protoboard's layout is useful to you, you can find it here:

	4520 board in traxmaker format.		4520 board in traxmaker format.


			<b>Using solderless breadboard with the 4520 board</b>

			Shove it in there. Hard. See photo below.

			You can run wires from the +5 and ground connections on 4520 board to the red and blue rails on the solderles breadboard.

	[[Image:4520-solderlessbb.jpg]]		[[Image:4520-solderlessbb.jpg]]

LIMS at 01:45, 27 December 2007

2007-12-27T01:45:23Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 20:45, 26 December 2007
Line 39:		Line 39:
	The board is intended to be cut in half, providing one part for insertion into a solderless breadboard, and another half for more reliable solderboard construction		The board is intended to be cut in half, providing one part for insertion into a solderless breadboard, and another half for more reliable solderboard construction

	The next step better still is to to make a printed circuit board with your circuit on it as well as the PIC. If starting with the protoboard's layout is useful to you, you can find it here: ~~4520 board in traxmaker format~~		The next step better still is to to make a printed circuit board with your circuit on it as well as the PIC. If starting with the protoboard's layout is useful to you, you can find it here:

			4520 board in traxmaker format.

			[[Image:4520-solderlessbb.jpg]]

LIMS at 22:57, 26 December 2007

2007-12-26T22:57:11Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 17:57, 26 December 2007
Line 40:		Line 40:

	The next step better still is to to make a printed circuit board with your circuit on it as well as the PIC. If starting with the protoboard's layout is useful to you, you can find it here: 4520 board in traxmaker format		The next step better still is to to make a printed circuit board with your circuit on it as well as the PIC. If starting with the protoboard's layout is useful to you, you can find it here: 4520 board in traxmaker format



	[[Image:4520_assembly_sml.jpg\|right]]


	<b>Assembling the 4520 board</b>

	[http://spreadsheets.google.com/pub?key=pa_bNAhFF-Otz-QHa4qOcCA Parts list for 4520 board]

	Shown is the smaller version of the 4520 PCB, with most of the parts laid out in proper orientation for assembly.
	[http://129.105.69.13/pic/pcb/4520_assembly_big.jpg Larger image of the smaller board]

	The larger board is the same, but with a "solderboard" area attached as well.

	Note:

	*The regulator chip can be replaced by a jumper (red wire in the photo) if you are using a 5.0V regulated power supply

	*The anode (positive) side of an LED is usually the longer lead. + and - are marked on the PCB

	* A vertical-insertion 6-6 modular jack can also be used; just cut off the plastic tabs.

	* A 20MHz oscillator is soldered directly to the board, bu the PIC18F4520 chip is socketed.

	* The marked pin (dot) on the 9-pin SIPs is the common bus for all eight 1K resistors inside. The proper insertion for the SIP is indicated by a dot on the PCB. The SIPs go in with altenating orientation (two each way).

	* Ceramic capacitors are non-polarized and can be intalled either way.

	* The resistor near the reset switch is 4.7K (or whatever) and the resistor near the LED is 1K (or whatever).

	* The 36-pin SIP header is intended to insert into a solderless breadboard. It's under the PCB, with the longer gold-plated pins downward.


	[[Image:barrel.jpg\|right]]


	<b>Barrel plug conventions</b>

	As noted above you can use a regulator or not, depending if you are planning to use a >5V power supply which needs regulating down to 5.0V, or if you are planning to use an already-well-regulated 5.0V supply.

	We are trying to stick to a convention of using a 5.5mm/2.5mm barrel plug & jack for 5.0V exactly, and a 5.5/2.1mm barrel plug & jack for >5V.

	It's very hard to distinguish these connectors visually, but you'll find that the 2.1 plug won't fit into the 2.5 jack, thus preventing the more unfortunate error. (2.1mm and 2.5mm refer to the diameter of the pin inside.)

	You can distinguish the jacks by looking straight inside. In the photo, the 2.5mm is on the left, and the 2.1mm on the right.

LIMS at 18:06, 26 December 2007

2007-12-26T18:06:22Z

LIMS at 18:01, 26 December 2007

2007-12-26T18:01:14Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 13:01, 26 December 2007
Line 33:		Line 33:
	You can solder to these connection points, or insert a dual-row connector for a ribbon cable header, or a single-row connector to insert the board into a solderless breadboard, or you can solder terminal strips onto the board.		You can solder to these connection points, or insert a dual-row connector for a ribbon cable header, or a single-row connector to insert the board into a solderless breadboard, or you can solder terminal strips onto the board.


	here is a
	[http://129.105.69.13/pic/pcb/4520_pcb_full_big.gif full size gif of the board]		[http://129.105.69.13/pic/pcb/4520_pcb_full_big.gif Here is a full size gif of the board]
	, also showing the prototyping area.		, also showing the prototyping area.

Line 51:		Line 51:

	Shown is the smaller version of the 4520 PCB, with most of the parts laid out in proper orientation for assembly.		Shown is the smaller version of the 4520 PCB, with most of the parts laid out in proper orientation for assembly.
	[http://129.105.69.13/pic/pcb/4520_assembly_big.jpg ~~larger~~ ~~Image~~]		[http://129.105.69.13/pic/pcb/4520_assembly_big.jpg Larger image of the smaller board]

			The larger board is the same, but with a "solderboard" area attached as well.

	Note:		Note:

LIMS at 17:59, 26 December 2007

2007-12-26T17:59:47Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 12:59, 26 December 2007
Line 24:		Line 24:
	[[Image:4520board_pcb.gif\|right]]		[[Image:4520board_pcb.gif\|right]]


			<b>Layout of the 4520 PCB</b>

	Most of the 40 pins of the PIC are brought out to labeled connection points.		Most of the 40 pins of the PIC are brought out to labeled connection points.

LIMS at 17:58, 26 December 2007

2007-12-26T17:58:40Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 12:58, 26 December 2007
Line 70:		Line 70:


	[[Image:barrel.jpg]]		[[Image:barrel.jpg\|right]]

LIMS at 17:58, 26 December 2007

2007-12-26T17:58:16Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 12:58, 26 December 2007
Line 68:		Line 68:

	* The 36-pin SIP header is intended to insert into a solderless breadboard. It's under the PCB, with the longer gold-plated pins downward.		* The 36-pin SIP header is intended to insert into a solderless breadboard. It's under the PCB, with the longer gold-plated pins downward.


			[[Image:barrel.jpg]]


			<b>Barrel plug conventions</b>

			As noted above you can use a regulator or not, depending if you are planning to use a >5V power supply which needs reglauting down to 5V, or if you are planning to use an already-well-regulated 5V supply.

			We are trying to stick to a convention of using a 5.5mm/2.5mm barrel plug & jack for 5V, and a 5.5/2.1mm barrel plug & jack for >5V.

			It's very hard to distinguish these visually, but you'll find that the 2.1 plug won't fit into the 2.5 jack, thus preventing the more unfortunate error.

			You can distinguish the jacks by looking straight inside. In the photo, the 2.5 is on the left, and the 2.1 on the right.

← Older revision		Revision as of 13:06, 26 December 2007
Line 57:		Line 57:
	Note:		Note:

	*The regulator chip can be replaced by a jumper (red wire) if you are using a 5V regulated power supply		*The regulator chip can be replaced by a jumper (red wire in the photo) if you are using a 5.0V regulated power supply

	*The anode (positive) side of an LED is usually the longer lead. + and - are marked on the PCB		*The anode (positive) side of an LED is usually the longer lead. + and - are marked on the PCB
Line 67:		Line 67:
	* The marked pin (dot) on the 9-pin SIPs is the common bus for all eight 1K resistors inside. The proper insertion for the SIP is indicated by a dot on the PCB. The SIPs go in with altenating orientation (two each way).		* The marked pin (dot) on the 9-pin SIPs is the common bus for all eight 1K resistors inside. The proper insertion for the SIP is indicated by a dot on the PCB. The SIPs go in with altenating orientation (two each way).

	* Ceramic capacitors are non-polarized and can be ~~insterted~~ either way.		* Ceramic capacitors are non-polarized and can be intalled either way.

	* The resistor near the reset switch is 4.7K (or whatever) and the resistor near the LED is 1K (or whatever).		* The resistor near the reset switch is 4.7K (or whatever) and the resistor near the LED is 1K (or whatever).
Line 79:		Line 79:
	<b>Barrel plug conventions</b>		<b>Barrel plug conventions</b>

	As noted above you can use a regulator or not, depending if you are planning to use a >5V power supply which needs ~~reglauting~~ down to 5V, or if you are planning to use an already-well-regulated 5V supply.		As noted above you can use a regulator or not, depending if you are planning to use a >5V power supply which needs regulating down to 5.0V, or if you are planning to use an already-well-regulated 5.0V supply.

	We are trying to stick to a convention of using a 5.5mm/2.5mm barrel plug & jack for 5V, and a 5.5/2.1mm barrel plug & jack for >5V.		We are trying to stick to a convention of using a 5.5mm/2.5mm barrel plug & jack for 5.0V exactly, and a 5.5/2.1mm barrel plug & jack for >5V.

	It's very hard to distinguish these visually, but you'll find that the 2.1 plug won't fit into the 2.5 jack, thus preventing the more unfortunate error.		It's very hard to distinguish these connectors visually, but you'll find that the 2.1 plug won't fit into the 2.5 jack, thus preventing the more unfortunate error. (2.1mm and 2.5mm refer to the diameter of the pin inside.)

	You can distinguish the jacks by looking straight inside. In the photo, the 2.5 is on the left, and the 2.1 on the right.		You can distinguish the jacks by looking straight inside. In the photo, the 2.5mm is on the left, and the 2.1mm on the right.