Building the blue board

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Back to Northwestern Design Competition

The blue board stacks with the black board and the green board.

The DC2015 Control board

The blue board is a clone of the chipKIT DP32 by Digilent Inc.

It uses the PIC32MX250F128B, running at 40MHz with 128k flash and 32k RAM. The blue board breaks out 15 I/O pins, including 9 analog input and 5 PWM.

The schematic for the board is:

Pin Functionality
9/A3 Digital pin 9, by default analog input 3
8/A2* Digital pin 8, by default analog input 2, capable of PWM
10/A4 Digital pin 10, by default analog input 4
7/A1 Digital pin 7, by default analog input 1
11/A5 Digital pin 11, by default analog input 5
6/A0* Digital pin 6, by default analog input 0, capable of PWM
12/A6 Digital pin 12, by default analog input 6
13/A7* Digital pin 13, by default analog input 7, capable of PWM
14/A8/LD1 Digital pin 14, by default analog input 8, hardwired to the green LED LD1
17/BT1 Digital pin 17, hard wired to the User button BT1
3* Digital pin 3, capable of PWM
18 Digital pin 18
2* Digital pin 2, capable of PWM
1 Digital pin 1
0 Digital pin 0

Power

The blue board is powered by a 5V USB source, using a USB A to mini B cable.

The PIC32 is a 3.3V chip - do not put 5V on any of the pins, especially the analog inputs!

5V, 3.3V, and ground are broken out to be used for sensors and actuators.

Image of power outs

Assembly

Be sure to read up on How to solder

Regulator tin.gif
Regulator onepin.gif
Regulator rest.gif
  • Solder the 3.3V surface mount regulator
Solder usb.gif
  • Solder the USB mini B connector
Solder dip header bot.png
Solder dip header top.png
  • Solder the 28 pin DIP adapter
Solder crystal.png
Solder crystal bend.png
Solder crystal trim.png
  • Solder the 8MHz crystal resonator
Solder 10ks.png
Solder 330s.png
Solder r bent.png
Solder r trim.png
  • Solder the 10k and 330 resistors
Solder buttons top.png
Solder buttons side.png
  • Solder the push buttons Reset and User, make sure they are accessible from the side
Solder leds.png
Solder leds top.png
  • Solder the green LED LD1 and the red LED Power, note the polarity
Solder 10uf.png
  • Solder the 10uF capacitor, note the polarity
Solder caps.png
  • Solder the 0.1uF capacitor and the 1uF capacitor
Solder 2x1headers.png
Solder powerheaders.png
  • Add the 2x1 headers for power
Solder header too long.png
  • The 1x21 header is too long, needs to be 1x15
Solder cut header.png
Solder breakheader.png
  • Cut away the 16th pin
Solder sand header.png
Solder header sanded.png
  • Sand the rough plastic edge if necessary and solder
Solder blueboard bottom.png
  • The bottom of your board should be nice and clean, no sharp wires and nice solder fillets
Solder pins pic out.png
  • Put the PIC32 in, but notice the pins do not fit
Solder bend pins.png
Solder pins fit.png
  • Bend the pins simultaneously against a table
Solder blue board done.png

Push the chip in and the board is done!

Solder blue board on.png
  • Plug in a mini USB cable. IF the red light turns on, and the chips do not get hot, the board is ready to have the bootloader installed (see Nick)
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